A trip of this magnitude requires planning...trail and weather conditions, transportation, required gear, pre and post trip lodging, and developing a plan "B" in the event the initial plan must be abandoned. In this case, all of the above occurred.
Throughout the year, I have had the privilege of doing day hikes with a good friend, who is also a member of this four-man team. His son joined us recently for an overnight hike to test gear and hone back country skills. The fourth member of the team would fly in from Naperville (Chicago), Illinois, to Denver making it a well experienced team.
This would be a seven-day trip...two travel days, and five days in the wilderness. The trip was planned by Ed Blum, one of two senior members. A long time hiker and backpacker, Ed had a brief hiking experience in the same area of this trip over 20 years ago. His passion for the sport of backpacking and his desire to explore this area of inspiring back country, were the motivating factors behind this trip.
A route was determined, hotel rooms booked for the night before and after the trip, and immediate family members informed of the trip plan months in advance. Then Mother Nature took control by producing a series of horriffic and devastating forest fires in the Weminuche. Roads leading to the area were closed. Residents in the area were either evacuated or on alert to be evacuated.
People who lived in the tiny mountain town of Creede...our rooms were booked at The Historic Creede Hotel...were on stand-by evacuation alert as the mountains in the area were blazing out of control. The fire near Rio Grande Reservoir...site of the trail head (TH) to begin our trip...was raging in both the Papoose and Little Squaw drainages, later referred to as the Papoose fire. These drainages are both just downstream from the reservoir.
Parts of Route #149 from Creede to the reservoir...our planned route...were closed. The Ute Creek Trail...where our trip began and ended...was closed to hikers. The U. S. Forest Service scouted the rugged back country by helicopter to locate hikers already in the mountains, and redirect them.
Because of normal commitments to jobs, and family, location of the trip could be changed, but the dates could not. A "Plan B" was developed. As the month of June progressed, fires in the area were brought under control and eventually extinguished.
Roads reopened, evacuation alerts were recinded. Towns like Creede returned to a normal slow-paced daily routine. Our rooms in Creede were rebooked, to the delight of owners Dave and Leslie Toole.
I felt a degree of cautious excitement as August 31st...travel day #1...came closer and closer. The original trip plan was back.
PROFILES:
Brad Pfeil, (40), a high school orchestra director from Naperville, Illinois. The Detroit native is married and has one daughter. Included on his list of memorable hiking trips completed are Yosemite, and Sequoia National Park, the high points of the southwestern states and five multi-day trips in Colorado.
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| Brad Pfeil |
When asked what he found most memorable about this trip, Pfeil said, "The scenes on the (Continental) Divide (Trail) were amazing. I remember years ago while on the Lost Man Loop near Aspen, I looked up to the Divide wondering if I would someday walk parts of that trail. This trip forced me to use all my knowledge and skills in the back country. As for the toughest part, it was the day we walked a few miles in a driving rain plus sleet, and completely soaked boots.
Except for the few Elk we saw, I regret we didn't see more wildlife. In terms of items in my 20+-year-old external frame pack, I used everything, including a pair of Croc's, for camp and stream crossings. They were a good choice.
In terms of physical challenges, the hardest part was getting sufficient sleep due to the elevation change. I flew from Chicago (600' el.) into Denver (5,280'el.) the day before the 4.5 hour drive to Creede (8,852' el.). Then the drive to the TH (9,468' el.), the following day, and two days later, hiked the Continental Divide Trail at (12,892' el.).
What inspired me the most on this trip were the stars at Ute Lake. Seeing the Milky Way and meteor shower was an inspiring moment I won't forget. I am anxious to tell my daughter of my experience."
Asked for one word he will always connect to this trip, Brad said, "TEXAS." (Read the full story for details)
Tim Blum, (36), is married and the father of two daughters. Tim is a self employed Associated Management Consultant for non-profit organizations. The Blum family lives in Parker, Colorado.
Among the memorable firsts in his life, Tim told me are "Hiking with my family in RMNP, and reaching the summits of two Colorado 14ers (Greys (14,270' el.) and Torres Peak (14,267' el.), with my wife."
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| Tim Blum |
As for this trip, Blum said, "The most challenging part was battling the elements. The most awe-inspiring was the hump up to the Continental Divide, and seeing Flint Lake on the western slope. The most enjoyable was having hot toddies at Ute Lake camp, after walking through a rain/hail storm. Then there was the most aroma-like moment...the symphony of farts among our tents. The most adventurous thing was testing my new Mont Bell (30 degree) bag. It dried out well, and was comfy. Two additional firsts are the initiation of my Big Agnes, Fly Creek UL1 tent. I liked that I could sit up inside. The downside...too many stake points. And finally, my new SteriPEN water filter proved itself to be effective. Plus I used everything in my pack. I do regret not bringing a second pair of socks, plus not stuffing a trash bag inside my pack to protect my gear from becoming wet.
The toughest part was the hike from Twin Lakes to Ute Lake, in the rain and hail. Plus we had to look for campsites close by. I really enjoyed the trip. The companinonship, the awe-inspiring beautiful views, and good pre-planning, combine for a memorable trip.
What I liked most was the overwhelming wildness of the Weminuche.
A lasting memory: "We saw so much shit" (elk, bear, coyote, horse) on trail.
When asked for a memorable quote, Tim replied, "I'm going straight ahead." (Read the full story for details).
Ed Blum, (66), the former Executive Director of Rocky Mountain Electrical League, now retired. Blum is married, and the father of a daughter living in London, with her family and a son (Tim) in Parker, Colorado. Ed has 3 granddaughters.
Ed's most memorable backcountry trip to date was a 360 degree hike around Maroon Bells in the 1970's. He had previously been to the Weminuche with his young family, camping at the 30-mile campsite, down the road from the TH for this trip, and wanted to get back to do some serious backpacking in the area.
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| Ed Blum |
"This trip rivals the best overall experience of my career," he told me. "The ruggedness of the terrain, the beautiful scenery, the uniqueness of the land forms, rock formations, rain of catapillars, areas of extreme erosion, and numerous stream crossings, combined for a most-memorable trip.
I was surprised at the constant ups and downs on trail. It made it more difficult. I especially liked the Continental Divide part. I never walked on trail with as much water running down slope before.
I do regret taking a wrong trail, and having to bushwack up to the ridge to get my bearings on where we were. In terms of the things I packed, the only thing I did not fully use or consume, was a space blanket and a pound of almonds. Like Tim, I also used the SteriPEN filter for the first time because it took less physical effort to process the water. Because of my age, I was concerned about getting too cold, and my body would not be able to regain normal body temperature.
It was nice that we didn't see any other people until we were at West Ute Lake (11,801' el.), on day 2. As for regrets...I regret taking a wrong trail. We had to bush whack up to the ridge to get my bearings on where we were.
Gary Alleman, (66), a former Quality Engineer with AMP Incorporated. The global electronics firm was acquired by Tyco, and is now Tyco Electronics (ADT Home Security with offices in Aurora, is a division of Tyco Electronics). After a 35-year career with the firm, I retired at age 60 in 2007.
I am the father of two married daughters, and grandfather of two grandsons. One daughter lives in Pennsylvania. The other, with two boys, resides in Centennial, Colorado.
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| Gary Alleman |
After years of hiking/backpacking, my journals have details of the good, the bad, and the ugly experiences endured on trail. Among my favorites are, 4 days in the White Mountains, and climbing Mt. Washington in New Hampshire; West Rim Trail, Pennsylvania Grand Canyon; the Appalachian Trail from the New York/New Jersey border to the Tye River in Virginia; Old Loggers Path; Wild Basin (RMNP); Mt. Democrat (14,148'); and the first trip in the Weminuche.
The fact is physical challenges my body will endure over 5 days in remote back country, would be my biggest concern. A knee replacement in March, 2011, is holding up well. In addition, living with Parkinson Disease (PD) since being diagnosed in 2004, means a trip of this magnitude would not only test my physical abilities, it would force my brain to communicate with my extremities. My focus will be on placement of each footstep, the planting of each pole, while absorbing as much grandeur, and surviving the most uncomfortable conditions Mother Nature can manufacture.
Most vivid memories of this trip include, fording the Rio Grande river twice, camping at 4 different alpine sites, surviving the best attempts Mother Nature makes to discourage me, and experiencing it all with three guys who have an equal passion.
Breakdown of my pack weight this trip: Pack - 3# 08 oz.; Food - 3#; Water - 4# .06 oz (70 oz.); Clothes - 5# .06 oz; Kitchen - 3#; Sleep - 4# .06 oz.; Tent - 4# 10 oz.; Camera - 4# 12 oz.; FA - 10 oz.; Journal - 1# .04 oz.; Meds - .02 oz. (Total pack weight = 35 #)
DAY #1:
Beginning in downtown Creede, we drove 21 miles to the Rio Grande Reservoir, then another 16 miles to the mouth of the reservoir and the Ute Creek TH (9,468'). After a quick check on the depth (mid-calf) and width (est. 40 yds.), of the Rio Grande River, we slipped into water shoes for the crossing. It would be my first river crossing of this size on foot.
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| Ed fording the Rio Grande River |
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| Wildflowers decorate the slopes. |
Trail at times slopes down on one side with the overall landscape. Outfitters on horseback use these trails as well, causing many spots where the thin trail bed to begin with has been eroded away. My biggest fear on trail is loss of balance. A slight misstep, over leaning to one side, or loss of focus for a second, and the 36 lb. pack cinched on my back can be the start of a fall from which I might not survive.
When on trail, I tend not to talk much. Living with PD has taught me to focus on the fundamentals...step on stable trail bed, maintain a steady pace, grasp and plant poles firmly, and stay within my physical capability.
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| Massive scree field below a rock outcropping. |
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| Ed moves across the scree field. |
Huge black flies and misquitoes take us hostage as we make our best attempts to swat, slap, and otherwise try our best to brush them off every inch of exposed skin. Above, the ever present and cunning grey and black clouds hold in their arms an array of surprises to be dished out by the hikers good friend/nemesis, Mother Nature.
Brad and Tim have moved ahead of Ed and me. We later learned they had met and talked with a U. S. Forest Service Ranger and two trail maintenance crew members. The ranger explained there was a sighting of a brown bear in the area we planned to hike in and camp. The animal had reportedly found one hikers pack and proceeded to demolish it to obtain food. The incident occurred after the hiker had briefly left his pack unattended.
When we caught up with Tim and Brad and got the story, a collective decision was made to continue with the original plan and find the site for camp #1, despite the bear.
To the southeast, is the "Rio Grande Pyramid" (13,821' el.), and next to it, "The Window," (12,857' el.) a void in the rock face. Two awesome and unique features of the Weminuche.
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| View of Rio Grande Pyramid (L) and 'The Keyhole' (R) |
Beyond Black Lake, is a junction with the Garita Stock Driveway Trail. Here, trail breaks into a vast open meadow at the confluence of east, west, and middle Ute Creeks. This meadow is a mixture of multiple ultra-green color, with areas of thick willow and pockets of wildflowers.
After the Rio Grande, there were 8 small stream crossings today. I'm glad we needed to change into water shoes only once.
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| Crossing one of many alpine streams |
The barking and howling of a pack of coyotes can be heard in the distance.
Dark clouds we saw earlier are now directly overhead. Thunder has been building in intensity for an hour or more. Mother Nature is in the early stages of unleashing one of her spectacular shows...not that any of us have a choice of wanting to experience a show or not. Rain begins falling, as we rush to put up tents and make the only dry space available within miles. Problem is, we will be flat on our backs with mere inches of space to move in until the storm passes.
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| Tim prepares his evening meal. Camp #1. |
There is time for a hot meal before we are forced into our tents about 7:30 by the increasing downpour. Thunder and lightening continues into the night.
As the new day begins, the first show staged by Mother Nature has closed, leaving us in absolute solitude by sunrise. It is a special awareness one gets in the Weminuche.
Today, we walked by the following wildflowers: Alpine Pussytoes, Aster, Candy Tuft, Wild Strawberry, Arnica, Golden Banner, Butter Cup, Red Clover, Orange Indian Paintbrush and Blue Columbine.
Mileage: 6.5
Elevation gain: 1,407
Day #2:
I am awakened in the early morning by 'Natures call.' My Little John is always within arms reach. It saves me the hassle and chill factor of getting out of my bag over night. Other staple overnight items include meds for the coming day, and a mini head lamp. Other items always kept in my tent regardless of the weather include, pen and journal, camera, extra clothes, and kitchen kit. Boots and water shoes are wedged under the vestibule regardless of how wet they are. The rest remains in my pack which is covered with its rain cover then hung in a tree close to camp
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| Brad in Ute Creek Meadow. |
Although the rain later did stop, our tents were pelted into the early morning hours by residual from spruce trees around camp. When I awoke, the inside of my rain fly was loaded with droplets of water caused by my breath overnight. If I cause the mesh of the tent to touch the fly (by simply raising my knees inside my bag), it will cause the dropplets above that point to fall thru making my bag, mattress, and gear wet. The trick is to maneuver ones body in such a way as to slip out of the bag, slip into camp shoes, open the tent zipper, then the rain fly zipper, while keeping dropplets from falling. That said, next is the real test. Flip open both the mesh tent door and fly flap in one swooping motion with a minimum of dropplets landing on my gear. That is one task I have yet to master.
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| Trail passes alpine lakes each day. |
Outside, the ground is soaked. Every blade of grass is burdened with the remnants of the storm and overnight dew. The rain fly must be unbuckled quickly, carefully and removed with a minimum droppage of condensation dropplets. The fly is then draped over a random dead tree branch on the ground, over a log, or on the grass in the sun to dry. Everyone works to get their rain fly, ground cover sheet, and wet clothes draped over something to start the drying process.
On the short walk to the stream to filter water for the day, my eyes are scouting the edges of the meadow, along the stream bed, and across the meadow, looking for elk, moose, or that bear we heard about. Before leaving the stream, another look around for wildlife...none.
Back in camp, I set up the kitchen. Water is prepped for coffee. Mix a bowl of powdered milk then add a bag of Cheerios. A zip bag of gorp in my pocket will serve as trail snacks.
Backpacks are repacked for the day. My water filter is still dripping so I attach it to the outside of my pack to dry in the sun while I walk. We are on trail by 11:00 a.m., for the 5+ mile trek to West Ute Lake (11,801'). We will follow the La Garita Stock Driveway Trail to a junction with the Continental Divide Trail.
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| Long open meadow of tall grass and spruce trees. |
The long and wide valley we travel today reminds me of my first trip to the Weminuche. Trail bed remains muddy and large areas of standing water. Areas of heavy willow growth and boggy areas make travel difficult. Willow is that thick at places, it fully covers trail bed for yards at a time. If I loose sight of the top of a backpack moving ahead of me it's difficult to determine at times where the next turn in trail is.
Of the many wildflowers we see, one of the most unique is wild strawberry. Their fruit is prolific and so are the runners which cross the trail bed. Gary has a taste...how sweet.
There are 8 small stream/drainage crossings again today. None of which require water shoes.
The last 1.5 mi.+/-, section of trail is littered with downed timber. It forces us to bush whack around those barriers. Plus trail here is the steepest all day. Go figure!
The sun has been out all day, which made it a comfortable walk. We approach West Ute Lake about 5:30 and locate the campsite area. In the distance, we can hear faint sounds of thunder. It will reach us, but hopefully not before we set up camp.
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| No, this is not an ad for REI, but it would qualify. |
As I lower my pack, I notice that my water filter is gone. Apparently, it was knocked loose somewhere on trail, possibly during the challenging part of the hike today. I am physically spent and decide not to go back to look for it. More important, camp must be set up before the rain starts. Mother Nature's thunder and lightening show will go on, that is certain.
Tim and Brad find spots for their tents on the ridge above the lake. I decide on a spot below the ridge by some willow. Ed sets up his tent another 25 yds. down from me. Food bags are collected and a tree is selected as the hanging tree. Tim gets the rope over a high branch on his first toss.
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| Camp #2 atop the ridge at West Ute Lake |
The sun is almost behind the mountain. The temperature quickly drops 20 degrees or more soon after. Rain begins just after 6, forcing us inside once again. The downpour continues as I inch into my bag and prepare for the night. Soon, the pelting is turned up a notch. As I look to my left and peek between the bottom of the rain fly and tent mesh, there is enough light remaining to confirm...IT'S HAILING! Tim would later call it couscous-size.
A restless night for sure. Rain, and hail pelting a few millimeter thick cover over a light weight flimsy mesh inner layer doesn't quite give one a sense of contentment. And I am gonna get a good nights sleep...right.
We count the seconds between lightening flash and thunder...one thousand one, one thousand two. Lightening begins abut five miles away but it's on the move, coming our way. Soon the two sounds are simultaneous. We remain fully exposed, above treeline, inside our tents, and lying prone on our backs. There were no direct hits, although a few lightening strikes felt very close. Eventually, the storm passes.
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| Brad enjoys the solitude at West Ute Lake. |
Wildflowers today include Rosy Indian Paintbrush, Gentian, Cow Parsnip, Frost Ball, Daisy, Cinquefoil and Queens Crown.
Mileage: 5.3
Elevation gain: 926'
Day #3:
Up and begin my routine at 7:30. Try something new for breakfast. Scratch pancakes. To the batter, I add bacon bits to give it flavor. The stoves flame must be monitored closely to insure the batter doesn't burn. The first pancake is brown when flipped but due to the shape of the mini skillet, I mangle it some. Minutes later, the first pancake is in a bowl, syrup is added, then...WOW, they taste great. Hot cocoa warms my core making is easier to finish camp chores.
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| Kitchen: Preparation towel, w/knife and fuel cap; bacon bits, zip bag of powdered mix; stove container (red); skillet; red mixing bow of batter, bacon bits w/spoon; MSR Pocket Rocket stove on top of fuel canister; cook pot; drinking cup; blue eating bowl w/utensils; maple syrup container; Nalgene water bottle. |
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| Almost perfect pancake |
Repack for trail. Just before leaving camp #2, a man and woman walk in. They are residents of Silverton and are out on trail for a few days. He tells us they saw a herd of 100+ elk yesterday on the ridge above the lake. They were excited that many of the herd wandered into their camp overnight. A sight all four of us would welcome.
On trail by 11 again. Conditions are favorable to start...no wind, and partly cloudy skies. We leave West Ute Lake on the Continental Divide Trail (CDT). Today, we expect to see more awesome landscapes than any so far.
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| Early morning at West Ute Lake |
By 1 p.m., we hear thunder. We are now high enough to see row after row of peaks, many of which are shrouded in a thick white mist...it's actually rain. It's all heading our way. By 3 p.m., we are walking in a driving rain storm plus its hailing.
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| Reflectiona |
Reach elevation of 11,980', then 12, 010', and 12,470', on the Continental Divide. Trail is very poorly defined at places.
Hooded rain gear provides a thin shield from the cold and constant pelting of millions of mini darts out of the sky. The only exposed skin is that of my wrists and hands. I am wearing shorts so my lower legs are also exposed.
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| Mother Nature seems unhappy! |
The grip I make around my poles does not budge for over 2 miles. Why..because I have little feeling in my fingers. It's almost like my hands are frozen in place. We continue for another 2.6 mi. fully exposed, above treeline, passing both Middle Ute Lake and Twin Lakes and crossing 3 shallow drainages in the process.
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| Another scree field before reaching the CDT |
We meet a man hiking solo. He appears older than both Ed and me...possibly in his early 70's. We learn he is from Virginia. When he turns around to leave, I see the Appalachian Trail patch and rocker on his pack. The rocker indicates he has thru-hiked the entire 2,230 mile Appalachian Trail (AT), (Maine to Georgia). The AT patch on my pack indicates membership in the A.T. Conservancy. He is glad to see a familiar symbol. As we shake hands, I ask for his trail name. "Mule," he said, "What's yours? Cherokee," I say, as we part in opposite directions.
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| West Ute Lake from above. |
Tired, soaked and cold, we wander around atop the ridge above Ute Lake looking for a camp site. Brad and Tim notice what appears to be a flat, open area. We decide to move down closer to the lake. An area among the willow will do fine for camp #3.
Reach the highest elevation of the trip today at 12,890'.
Arrive at Ute Lake, drenched to the skin. We quickly set up camp, then strip out of our wet clothes and don dry ones...well, sorta dry. Wet items are draped on surrounding willow bushes as the sun drops behind the Divide above us.
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| Thick willow growth covers both stream and trail at times. |
Wildflowers today include Lovage, Bitter Cress, Sunflower, Monkey Flower, Moss Campin, and Harebell.
Tonight, the meal will be a substantial hot one, because my body is shaking from the cold/wet day. I need to get into my bag and increase core temperature or I will not be able to function well in the morning.
Fall asleep surprisingly early.
Mileage: 6.1
Elevation gain: 800
Day #4:
Overnight was quiet except for the rippling of a shallow stream separating my tent site from the others. When I awake, the temperature has dropped below the past three mornings. A thick coat of frost on everything...shorts, socks, underwear, and boots...we put out to dry yesterday is proof.
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| Frozen shorts |
The sun remains behind the mountains to the east. Will there be enough time to dry everything? Ed has ice cycles hanging from inside his vestibule. Plus an unknown destructive little...maybe not so little...critter chewed on his sole inserts overnight.
Make a dump walk well above camp after breakfast. Hear a pack of coyotes in the distance.
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| Camp #4 at sunrise. |
It would be after 11 when we got on trail today. It is a steep climb from Ute Lake to the CDT before moving on. On top, walking on the spine of North America, views are like no other we have seen. Looking west, we have a wonderful view of Flint Lake.
We climb a steep grade to a pass separating the Ute and La Osa valleys. Atop the ridge, there is a confusing junction of trails. We turn left on a shelf trail with magnificent views of the La Osa valley and Continental Divide.as it tracks toward the West Ute Trail. It will take us back down into the Ute valley. We erroneously take a trail up to a ridge (12,600'). Although it was not the West Ute Trail, it does provide fantastic views of the Rio Grande Pyramid and 'The Window.' It also serves as a terrific spot for lunch.
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| Tim (L) prepares raspberry crumble with cookie crumb topping for dessert after the last evening meal as Gary watches. |
We go cross country following the ridge Northeast to once again catch the CDT. The trail passes the Rincon LaOsa Trail and continues to our cutoff to the West Ute Trail. Descending again into the Ute Valley, the trail goes faint at times, as it snakes through tall grasses, wildflowers, thick willow, and scat. Trail gets stronger as we get lower in the valley. There is one section on a gravel exposed rim that is steep and slippery.
Brad spotted what he thinks are elk in a stand of spruce trees across the valley. Using his scope, he confirms they are in fact elk and offers me a chance to look. It would be the only wildlife sighting of the trip. What we did see more than anything else were animal tracks and scat...elk, deer, coyote, bear, horse...some less than two days old.
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| Awesome landscape..west side of CDT. |
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| Walking the spine of North America. |
Arrive at camp #4 about 6 p.m. Light rain today, no downpour. The sky is fully overcast, however. I sit under a large spruce wearing long undies, a wicking tee, LS cotton jersey, and a fleece vest. A skull cap covered with a knit hat and cotton glove liners...thanks to Ed...keep two key parts of the body comfortable.
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| View of Rio Grande Pyramid and 'The Keyhole' from the CDT. |
Prepare the last hot meal, Chicken Teraikai, of the trip. In my bag by 8 tonight. Thunder and lightening again with light rain till about 10 p.m. Then quiet overnight.
Wildflowers seen today include Mouse Ear, Sandwort, Dwarf Goldenrod, Kings Crown, and Yellow Indian Paintbrush.
Mileage: 4.3
Elevation gain: 179'
Day #5:
Up today at 6 in order to get an early start on trail. Our wet items are once again draped on clumps of grass in the meadow. Breakfast is Moosilick Goulash.
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| Ed checks out his tent. |
Although cold again at sunrise, the sun is warm by 8 a.m. I am beginning to regret having to leave this adventure. The landscapes, as rugged as they are, may not be experienced again. I'll keep hiking, but future trips may be shorter and less physical.
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| Thick willow growth in the meadow. |
My hope is this wilderness will be sustained so my grandchildren and their grandchildren can enjoy the beauty and excitement of being with nature like I have.
Thunder rumbles overhead as we slip into rain gear and pack covers for the departing leg of the trip. A light drizzle is all that will reach the ground today.
Before reaching the Ute Creek Trail...the final leg of our journey...we meet two men on horseback. They brought horses all the way from Arkansas to ride into the back country. Later, a line of pack mules/horses came from the direction of the TH. The wrangler in charge is taking customers and their gear to Ute Lake to camp. One "Greenhorn"
customer obviously unacquainted with stream crossings spies Brads' trekking poles and asks, "Lose your skis?"
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| L to R: Tim Blum, Gary Alleman, Ed Blum, and Brad Pfeil stand on the Continental Divide with 'Rio Grande Pyramid' and 'The Keyhole' at rear.. |
We also encounter a man, woman, and their son on horseback. The wrangler, Chris, is taking his customers on a day trip up the Ute. The customers are from TEXAS. We exchange information about our home town. When Brad said he was from Chicago, the man in his TEXAS drawl said, Oh, you're from Obama's hometown, how's that working for you? Brad remained quiet, not to be drawn into any political broo-ha-ha.
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| Wrangler leads clients, and their pack mules to camp at Ute Lake. |
Wrangler Chris, told us to stop on our way back to Creede, at a place called Freemon's General Store. Can't miss it, he said. You'll see it on the left at mile marker 39. The place has the best burgers around. Tell the woman you met Chris, up the Ute.
After the two groups separated, I had a thought of the man...obviously a die-hard Conservative...dismounting and getting into a heated political debate there on the tundra of the Weminuche.
Three stream crossings today. Two of them were relatively close, so we only changed into water shoes twice. After crossing one, we built a log/rock wall to divert the water flowing directly down trail. Instead, water will continue in the stream bed.
Wildflowers today include Gentian, Arnica, Golden Banner, Red Clover and Jacobs Ladder.
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| Ed and son Tim Blum cross the now deeper and muddy Rio Grande River on day 5. |
The Rio Grande River, now the final element of our 5-day journey, was deeper and muddy from days of hard rain. We cross without incident, and reach the vehicle by 4 p.m.
On the road, we spot Freemon's General Store, and pull in. A ""NO WHINING" sign greets customers as they enter. Once inside, I thought I had walked into an old wild west general store. We were greeted by a woman loudly asking, "Burgers or Ice Cream." We later learned burgers are served in the main store area and Ice Cream is served in a separate room.
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| Freemon's General Store where 'Whining' is not tolerated. |
The customer service bell is a rat trap. The walls are covered with antiques, photos, and old license plates. About the decor, Brad quipped, "It's like Applebee's, only older."
Our hands need a scrubbing. Looking for the washroom, Ed proceeds into a small room...the door is open...behind the Ice Cream room. He assumes it's the washroom, but it is not the washroom. It is a private room for "Employees only." The washroom is next to it. When Ed is shown the correct door, the woman quietly closes the "Private" room door.
We order burgers with everything...melted cheese, tomato, lettuce, pickle, and grilled onions, plus fries and drinks. Long tables are located among shelves of canned goods, personal hygiene items, post cards and area maps. Two benches at each checker board cloth covered table take the place of chairs.
Overhead is a hand painted sign "WORMS." Along the front wall of the store is a cooler with a sign "NIGHTCRAWLERS." Next to it is a 1950's antique Coca-Cola cooler. Inside is a basket of fresh potatoes. In another basket are fresh vadalia onions for sale.
A woman walks in and goes straight to the cooler, grabs an empty styrofoam cup with a lid and helps herself to a cup of nightcrawlers. "Colorado women buy the nightcrawlers," she said, as she went by our table on her way to the check-out register.
I used the washroom again before leaving. The one lasting impression I have is of the wallpaper. Every inch of the sawmill cut lumber used for walls, is covered with individual pages of old magazines stapled to the wood. I am likely to not ever see that again.
As we were preparing to leave, Chris, the wrangler came in. Turns out he is the son of the woman behind the counter. The General Store side business is outfitting in the Weminuche, plus there are cabin rentals on site and ATV's for rent.
Chris' mom came to our table saying, "You boys been up the Ute.? Sure have," we said. For a second, I thought we were in a saloon in Deadwood, South Dakota, in 1813 instead of 2013.
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| A/C unit in the Bat Masterson room. |
Back in Creede, we stop at the town grocery store. It's 5:49 and the store closes at 6 p.m. We buy snacks for the evening. Across the parking lot is a liquor store. Tim gets a 6-pack of Colorado Native Lager, available only in Colorado.
At the hotel, a sign on the door welcomes us back. It's Monday, the hotel is officially closed. The note directs us upstairs where we will find each of our room keys in the lock to our room. We walk in and prepare for a relaxing evening and a shower.
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| Cozy and comfy. |
Across the street is the Old Firehouse Internet Cafe. I am intrigued, and decide to check it out. Ed and Brad decide to come too. As we cross, thunder rumbles overhead. Nothing to worry about this time. Inside, Ed orders a mega baked potato covered with bacon bits and other trimmings.
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| North end of Main Street. |
We talk to owners, Charles and Brenda Maze. They operate a 4-room Bed and Breakfast on the second floor of the building. Brenda has a display of home made brownies and large cinnamon rolls each topped with a large dollop of white icing all begging me to take them home to have with coffee. I will get one of each early in the morning before we leave town.
This "Is the place" to hang out in Creede. Call 719-658-0212 or email to info@theoldfirehouse.com
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| South end of Main Street. |
As we cross Main Street, to the hotel, a light rain is falling once again. This time we have the luxury of a roof over our head, a private washroom, and a soft warm queen bed to sleep in tonight.
My fellow-packer buddies are each preparing for their return home. Their rooms..the Soapy Smith, the Calamity Jane, and the Poker Alice, will have a few fond and lasting memories to take with them. One last journal entry, then lights out in the Bat Masterson room.
Mileage: 7.3
Elevation gain: 1,300'
Total Trip Mileage: 29.5
Total Trip Elevation Gain: 4,612'
TRAVEL DAY:
We are packed for the trip back to Denver and in the hotel dining room by 7:30 for breakfast. Leslie, our host and server, produces a wonderful meal and all the fresh hot coffee we want. If in the area of Creede, Colorado, you need a comfortable place to sty, and you appreciate historic buildings, call The Creede Hotel & Restaurant 719-658-2608, or on the web at www.creedehotel.com
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