The day it's front cover peeks out of the pile of political trash, promotional ads, and the menu of the latest take-out restaurant to open in town, I have some serious reading to do. More on this later.
Since developing a "Life List" a few years ago, at least one multi-day back country trip has been on it. Years of East Coast treks across trail systems in Pennsylvania, i.e. Tuscarora, Susquehannock, Mid-State, Horse Shoe, Old Loggers Path, Black Forest, and the granddaddy of them all, The Appalachian Trail, taught me many lessons.
Always looking for that next adventure, four multi-day trips, were developed on paper. The one I could not stop researching had to do with the name, Never Summer Wilderness. Every time I saw those words, I found myself looking it up on the web, or paging thru old Backpacker magazines for features on the area.
January, my birthday month, is normally when I begin thinking seriously about refining "The List" and refine plans for the #1item on the list.
The header on this itinerary read:
Baker/Bowen Gulch Loop
Never Summer Wilderness (NSW)
Arapaho/Routt National Forest and RMNP
August, 15 to 19, 2012.
This would not be a solo endeavor. The criteria for anybody to sign on included some backpacking experience, back country survival skills, plus they had to be mentally and physically fit.
As a member of the High Country Hiker (HCH) group, based at the Aurora Center for Active Adults (ACAA). I was hiking every week with men and women who met the criteria. No need for a bunch of phone calls, or emails.
A conversation with ACAA van driver and hike leader, Ed Blum provided an opportunity to explain my plan. Ed seemed interested, but he did not have all the necessary gear, plus he had not been on a multi-day trip for some time.
A few weeks later, Ed asked me to go shopping...for a new pack. We talked more and more during day hikes with the HCH group about the trip. Well into summer now, I was unsure who the third member of the party would be.
That question was answered when John and Kathy Tedrick joined the HCH group. It was obvious John had the experience, skills and knowledge needed to survive in the back country. John had been on many multi-day trips and had one planned just prior to this one. When asked if he would join us, he gladly accepted.
In the weeks leading up to day one, the three of us met for breakfast a few times, traded email, and a number of phone calls before the itinerary was considered a lock. A few visits to REI for essentials, and we were set.
THE TRIP:
Ed and me had a scheduled day hike with HCH the day before our trip. We prepared a day pack plus a multi-day pack. John volunteered to do the driving. His Subaru was the ultimate vehicle to transport both gear and trekkers.
After the day hike with HCH, we met for dinner before heading to Grand Lake and the Spirit Lodge Hotel. At our age, there was no argument. We welcomed one last night of comfort.
Day #1:
The huge hearty breakfast at the Fat Cat Cafe, would make any mountain man push back from the table.
A short drive to the trail head provided us a timely start. I said it would be a timely start, not necessarily an uneventful one.
We would be spending four or five days in bear country. Our food was well protected in a bear canister, deep inside my pack. In addition, we each had purchased a can of counter assault pepper spray in the event we were confronted by a rogue bruin.
"Let's see how this works," Ed said. As he pulled the trigger, a loud swooosh and a light cloud followed. "I'll try mine," I said, and a second swooosh burst out over the bridge we were about to cross.
Next thing we know, all three so called smart, skilled back country trekkers are coughing, holding our mouth shut, while our eyes are tearing up. The release had somehow found its way back to the source and nearly neutralized the three of us.
Remember: If you click on an image you will be able to scroll through all the images at full screen.
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| Ed and John cross the Kawuneeche Valley and the mountains. |
When entering the back country, my brain shifts into a different mode. It knows the fast-paced routine of yesterday will be replaced with a self-determined pace with no routine whatsoever. It knows, if the tension level is raised at all, it will be due to something caused by nature, i.e. a blow down across trail, a creek with a higher than normal water level, or an unexpected four-legged visitor in camp. To be in that mode is a good thing.
A short walk on the service road brings us to a U. S. Forest Service Trail Register., Ed signs us in.
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| Ed signs us in. |
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| Large talus field to cross. |
We follow Baker Creek to treeline all the while trail grade becomes increasingly steep. In the 5.1 mi. to camp #1 at Parika Lake, we gain almost 2,500' elevation (TH 8,864, Parika Lake 11,360.'
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| Terrain of Never Summer Wilderness |
A challenging day for sure, but we knew what to expect. We knew after establishing camp that our bodies were physically done for the day. John chose the most demanding chore of the evening, filtering water. It didn't take long for him to realize something was not quite right. The pumping routine was not as smooth and the flow of filtered water not as fast as it should be.
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| Filtering water. |
Although one would expect filtering water from an alpine lake runoff would be debris free, it was not. When the ceramic filter was removed, it looked like it had been dipped in a bowl of light brown chocolate. After a light scrub, water flowed the way it should.
Before sundown, Ed and John took the bear bag down trail and down wind a few hundred yards and lodged it high in a rock outcropping. Our pit stop for the evening was in the same area (down wind). John (the cook) prepared a pot of delicious Couscous.
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| One pot John. |
Before turning in, pack covers were cinched firm and packs were secured to a tree overnight. The bear canister (with all our food) remained as it was since arriving, in the open beside the stone fire ring. It would be a test for any curious bruin that had the balls to enter our camp.
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| The author at Parika Lake at dusk. |
As the sun faded behind Parika Peak, we wasted little time sequestering ourselves in our individual tents for the night. Temperatures up here can dip quite low. We were prepared with skull caps, long undies. fleece tops, glove liners, and long socks. Minutes after zipping my bag, extremities including the nose were toasty.
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| Aaahhhh, solitude |
Tired, sure; excited, absolutely; looking forward to tomorrow, you bet. After that, I heard NOTHING!
Day #2:
A tasty breakfast of freeze dried scrambled eggs with bacon bits added started the day. A mug of coffee warmed the belly and helped take the edge off the chilly early morning alpine air.
Water adds more weight than any other piece of gear on a trip like this. For that reason, I carried a maximum of 60 oz. of drinkable water in the 100 oz. pack bladder. Containers for water to cook were empty for the days trek.
On trail by 8:30, we could see the looong switchbacks leading up the slope behind the lake. From camp, it seemed it may take us all morning to get up there. Then John pointed to the ridge high above saying, "Look up there, two figures moving slowly. That will be us soon."
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| The longest switchback. |
As we get around the lake and begin our ascent, the thought of actually setting foot on the Continental Divide sent a feeling of elation to my brain. This was a big deal.
Switchback after switchback was littered with gravel and loose rock, making traction virtually impossible. This was going up. It would likely be worse on the other side. Arriving at the saddle between Parika Peak and Farview Mountain was a feeling of exceptional accomplishment.
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| Parika Lake from the Divide. |
As we looked down the slope, Parika Lake was a tiny speck of blue-green glass. We had made it, and it took less than two hours. Now, the adrenaline was really pumping.
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| Walking on top of the world. |
On to Farview Mountain (12,266'). Walking across alpine tundra might be boring to some. To me, it had a certain beauty to it, even without trees. It was more the feeling of being above any land as far as I could see. It was magic.
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| What is not to like about this place. |
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| Nothing but up! |
Trail on the descent from Farview was loaded with a mixture of gravel, loose rock, and scree. Footing was anything but easy. One misstep on the edge of trail, lean forward a bit too far, or look up too quickly while taking a step, and you could find yourself in a dangerous roll that would not soon end. Trekking poles made a huge difference for me.
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| Pack break. |
When I reach the head of Bowen Gulch, Ed and John have moved on ahead and out of sight. We had previously agreed on a spot to stop for a pack break. As I approached the bottom of the back side of Farview Mtn., I felt confident some kind of wildlife would make this a special day.
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| Wide open space. |
As we climb once again to reach the junction with the Continental Divide Trail, I am awe struck by the magnificent landscape.
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| Second climb of the day to Bowen Pass. |
On approach to Bowen Pass (11,476'), I realize this will likely be both the most challenging and most memorable day of the trip. The view now is of Bowen Gulch. Trail will drop over 1,000' over the next 1.4 mi. to the junction with Bowen Lake Trail.
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| Down into Bowen Gulch. |
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| Exciting!!! |
My camera is just below eye level...ready for the shot. I froze as one at the head of the pack looked my way. Would he consider this humanoid perched on a rock in the middle of a treeless landscape a threat and remain at the top? Was he thirsty enough and bold enough to test any potential threat I may cause?
Yep, he and his band of young rebels started down the slope. They stopped midway down the slope to graze. It would be my only experience with wildlife on the trip.
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| Ed decends from Bowen Pass. |
Soon after crossing a creek, I catch up with Ed and John taking a pack break in the shade. As we continue down the gulch, the forest becomes thick with spruce and lodge pole.
Then, on the right John notices a flat area. Upon closer inspection, it is an established campsite. The fire pit has been well used when open fires were permitted. The spot is at the confluence of two mountain streams.
We decide to camp here two nights. As the afternoon sun fades, grey clouds appear from the northwest. A stiff breeze adds to a drop in temperature. Dinner is behind us, and night attire is on for the remaining few hours before hitting the sack.
John's silnylon tarp did a fine job protecting us and the kitchen from attempts by the clouds to dump.
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| John and Ed hoist the bear bag. |
Ed and John had difficulty tossing the line over a tree limb in order to hoist the bear bag. Once in place, the bag went up quickly.
The area around a remote campsite like ours can provide surprises. With camera, map, and trail journal in hand, I took a leisure stroll to the bank of both creeks. Sufficient light remained for me to make a journal entry before retiring.
From my vantage point, I kept thinking maybe an elk, a moose and her calf, or a thirsty bear may show any second across the creek. Each time I looked up, nothing was moving but the water below. Before leaving this tranquile spot, another look...higher this time.
What is that high on the slope? According to the map, it is the remains of Wolverine mine, a silver-copper-lead mine discovered in 1875 by prospector, Jim Bowen. A faint line in the trees must be where the original wagon road was built in the 1880's. The mine at 12,084' el. is on the steep slope south of Bowen Mountain.
Now close to 8:00 p.m., all three of us were spent. It was one of those cases where nobody had to say, "I'm going to bed," it was understood.
Inside my bag, I could barely see daylight through the mesh panel of my tent. The rush of water in the creek a few yards down the bank was once again wilderness music to my ears. It is a rythum the mind enjoys.
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| Camp #2: Confluence of two alpine creeks. |
The next sound I hear is that of rain pelting the tent. The wind had stalled making the noise louder. The rain lasted a few minutes. After that, I don't remember a thing till dawn.
Day #3:
After a breakfast of hot oatmeal topped with dried cranberries and blueberries, I was primed for a day of fishing. We pack our fanny packs, and with rod and reel in hand, make our way up Bowen Gulch Trail about one mile to the Bowen Lake Spur Trail. The area is littered with pine beetle kill all the way to the lake. Many of the dead trees became easy targets for high winds...blow downs everywhere.
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| Multiple blowdowns. |
Trail climbs steeply for 1.2 mi., through dense forest. Once again, the trek is worth it. At 11,019' el., Bowen Lake is truly an anglers paradise. John, the ultimate angler, had cutthroat trout nibbling at his lure minutes after his first cast. All the while, Ed was still tying his hook.
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| Ed casts at Bowen Lake. |
After passing a casting class at Bass Pro earlier this year, one might think I would pick up some of the basic skills of a newbie angler. John was on the opposite side of the lake pulling in cutty after cutty. Ed perched around the bend to my left looked comfortable as he made cast after cast. His brightly colored line was the perfect image I wanted to capture with the lens.
I did finally get a line fed through my pole, and attached hook. Next issue was to figure out the proper line tension on the reel. I did make a few casts. Although a scarey moment was averted when my hook became lodged on a log just under the surface. A few cautious tugs with the rod dislodged it and the intact hook and line could be reeled in.
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| John is lovin' it. |
I decided to stay with what I know best...a camera. I can figure out "on" and "off." I can even find the shutter button without even looking at the camera. I'll enjoy looking at the images of the guys who know what their doing.
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| Nice! |
On the return to camp, we met a solo packer resting at the junction of Bowen Lake and Bowen Gulch trails. A remodeling contractor from "the Denver area," he was doing the same loop we were only clockwise. The conversation about how great it is to be out in the wilderness, to be fit and to exercise all came crashing down when he lit a cigarette. Not long after, we jointly agreed it was time to get back to camp.
Once again, dinner was outstanding. John and his one pot method worked well. How well? Lets say we all had at least two large servings of couscous. Toss in dried cranberries, blueberries, sliced almonds and yikes, you got a mega meal.
Finished the journal entry after dinner while munching on gorp, and dried apple slices - nice job Ed - before turning in. One last peek from deep inside my bag finds a faint outline of the trees above my tent.
Day #4:
A cold cereal (cheerios) breakfast, with cranberries and blueberries, and powdered milk tasted almost like home. The surroundings this morning, were awesome.
- Music - Consider a mountain stream vs classic rock on 99.5 The Mountain
- Footing - Consider 21,000 acres of wilderness vs hardwood floors at home
- Storage - Consider using and wearing every item in my pack vs all kinds of stuff I don't use in my closet
- Food - Consider consuming and burning mega calories vs steak and ice cream in the freezer, milk and OJ in the frige plus a plethora of extras in the pantry...who needs it all?
Today is another day of fishing at another idyllic setting high in the mountains. We head down Bowen Gulch to the junction with Blue Lake Spur Trail. At 10,590' el., the lake is not as far from the gulch trail as Bowen Lake.
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| Trail to Blue Lake. |
Trail has more areas of partial to full exposure. Sections of trail are narrow with some loose soil on the down side. Footing at these areas becomes the focus instead of the landscapes. We are thankful that our full packs are not cinched to our backs today. Our bodies will get one more opportunity to carry all our belongings a few miles tomorrow.
Arrival at the lake is almost anticlimatic. Seems like we have been here before. One cannot deny the unique beauty and solitude each of the lakes seen on this trip.
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| Author and Ed at Blue Lake. |
Before we get our fishing gear out, a solo backpacker arrives. We never got his name but we did learn he lives in Grand Lake. An outfitter who leads groups on fishing trips, he decided this week he needed time away by himself doing what he loves...fishing.
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| John hooks another cutthroat. |
Once again, John caught a number of nice size cuttys. By noon we were ready to get back to camp.
An hour later, we were back at camp, broke it down, policed the area, and began what would be the hike out of the wilderness a day early.
For some reason, I fell into a "Zone" the minute I left camp. Ed and John were convinced it was because I had tickets to see Joe Walsh in concert at Hudson Gardens, Sunday evening. Actually, I never thought about those tickets all day. I was simply in a good mental zone which propelled me to a 2.5 to 3 mph pace.
I felt good so I didn't slow down for creeks, loose rock, or short ups until I came to a moderate size creek. That was two+ miles after I started. When Ed and John arrived, they were surprised I had that much energy left.
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| John and Ed cross the last sizable creek. |
By 4:30, we had arrived at the wilderness border with RMNP. By 5:00 p.m., we were on the service road leading to the trail head.
Prolog:
Adventure can be appreciated most when it is shared with those who have the same degree of passion for it. I asked John and Ed for their comments on the trip.
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| The Kawuneeche Valley. |
What did you like most and least?
John:
Least - The last gasping mile up to Parika Lake was the steepest and cruelest mile of the trek. We (well, I was) were already done-in and the legs and lungs had to dig deep to get the work done.
Most - The hike over the two mountain passes on day two were challenging but very satisfying to complete. All the work we did to prepare for the trek paid off that day. The cutthroat's that came out of Blue Lake were little toads with stout shoulders. I've caught longer cutthroats in high country lakes but none as fat and robust as those.
ED:
Least - Pumping water.
Most - Being outside 24/7 and experiencing nature's elements directly; the wind, temperatures, rain, both day and night.
Gary:
Least - Coming out of the wilderness a day early.
Most - Every step I took on the Continental Divide.
What memories will stick with you?
John - One mental impression I'll be left with will be the steep downhill coming off Bowen Pass, stepping on rocks and gravel as if they were ball bearings - one misstep and slip and it would take a while before you'd quit rolling.
Each day in camp provided an opportunity to acquaint ourselves with each other and build a bond of friendship that can only be forged while hunkered down on a rock discussing the days hike, telling stories of past adventures and planning the next segment of the hike.
ED - Crossing two 12,000'+ passes in one day, the beauty of the alpine tundra environment, wind and cold at the top of the passes.
Gary - First sight of wildlife on the horizon.
What did tou learn?
John: - While the work (the hike) never gets easier, if you've trained enough, the trek can be satisfying as well as fun.
Ed - You can do pretty much anthing you set your mind to with proper preparation, traiing, and perseverance.
Gary - The body is truly a magnificent machine. When you provide it with the best possible fuel it will give you countless memories.
Do you have any regrets?
John - None.
Ed - That we couldn't have stayed in the wilderness longer.
Gary - We didn't see bear or elk.
How does this trip compare to other challenges in your past?
John - Each time I take on a challenge and surmount the obstacles, I learn a little more about myself and the outdoors and renew my confidence to take on new challenges. Doing two high mountain passes in one day, while carrying a fully-loaded backpack, makes most of the humdrum chores at home seem effortless.
Ed - It was not as challenging as my 360 degree trip around the Maroon Bells, Outward Bound, or Gila Wilderness trip, but much more satisfying because of my age.
Gary - Day two was more of a challenge than climbing a muddy trail 7 miles to Chicago Basin.
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| (L to R) Ed Blum (65) a retired electric utility manager, now a part-time educator and Naturalist; John Tedrick (65), a retired Home Inspector; and Gary Alleman (66), a retired Quality Engineer. REMEMBER - It's all about the journey! |
Thanks so much for the detailed trip report and pics. I'm planning a solo hike of this loop at the end of next month and your report provides a good description of what I can expect to encounter. Thanks again!
ReplyDeleteDave