It is one of my favorite places in Colorado to hike/backpack. The Indian Peaks Wilderness (IPW) located in central Colorado, about 35 miles northwest of Denver offers more than 76,400 acres of rugged backcountry to explore. All of it within a two-hour drive from my house.
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| View from Devils Thumb Trail...this is Colorado at its BEST! |
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This day began early as my good friend Ed and I pulled up to our regular meet site within minutes of each other. The sun was already bright in the bold blue Colorado sky. The only thing to slow our pace to the trailhead was morning rush hour traffic.
Knowing area streets and backroads from years of leading group hikes, Ed got us through and out of city traffic and on Coal Creek Canyon Road toward the mountain town of Nederland in good time. Before reaching the town, we turned off on Rt.130, passing the Eldora Ski Resort...slopes still blanketed in a thick layer of snow...to the tiny hamlet of Eldora.
What is it about Eldora? Try to get this image in your mind. One main street (road) through town. One stop sign...no traffic lights. No condos, patio-style homes, or anything close to resembling new construction. No elder care facilities and no fast food shops. In fact the only structure remotely close to being considered commercial is the clapboard covered building on Main Street housing the Eldora Fire Company.
With no sidewalks to speak of, and no "downtown business district," there was not a resident or out-of-towner...it's likely I couldn't tell the difference...to be seen.
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| Area of small ponds and bogs. |
At the far end of town the road turns from semi-paved to dirt. Although from here it's obvious the state DOT or U.S. Forest Service recently graded the next mile or two to the trailhead. It is the only access to this remote trailhead.
Vehicles can pass in opposite directions but on this stretch, there are not many vehicles to pass. Drivers are kept busy negotiating loose rocks and keep from drifting too far to one side. Both sides of this stretch is reserved for constant runoff from winter snowfall and spring downpours.
The trailhead is typical remote Colorado. No kiosk holding trail maps, no picnic tables, and no facilities...that includes no port-o-john. Parking is restricted to space on the access road between signs designating it. Ed backs up to the only other vehicle in sight.
As we exit the vehicle the smell of pristine backcountry hits us. To the left through the trees, the rush of millions of gallons of water roaring down Jasper Creek can be heard. It would be a sound we would relish the remainder of the day.
In minutes boots are firmly laced and day packs cinched down. While walking to the TH, both of us are excited to be in his remote area and anxious to begin the day.
Trail starts parallel with a rugged access road to a small parking area half a mile beyond. The path is littered with knarly tree roots, sporadic patches of rock and an occasional wood plank walkway across boggy areas and flowing mountain runoff.
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| Wood planks guide us across areas of heavy runoff and bogs. |
Soon we are out of the trees. Ahead is what appears to be an open meadow. In fact, it's the site of the old mining town of Hessie. Long since abandoned, the site was at one time a cluster of shacks and mining shantys along Jasper Creek.
Trail now becomes the access road a short distance to a walking bridge across the creek. If you have a high clearance, 4WD vehicle, and you've got guts, you can attempt to drive to this point on the access road as one person did today. From what we saw, the foot deep standing water littered with rocks peeping out from below, and the nasty erosion caused by rushing water, I would question those who tried to navigate the road.
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| First wood walking bridge over Jasper Creek. |
Beyond the walking bridge, trail follows a rock-strewn wagon road up slope to a second bridge across Jasper Creek.. There trail splits, ne to Lost Lake, the other to either Woodland or King Lake.
We remain on the east side of Jasper Creek on Devils Thumb Bypass Trail to Jasper Lake. In terms of pace, we are ok despite having to negotiate some moving water across trail. Ahead would be a totally different matter.
Remember the snow-covered ski slopes at Eldora Resort earlier. Ahead we would be confronted with packed snow two feet deep at places. Postholeing while hiking on deep snow is a concern. Especially when over 9,000' el. like today.
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| Able to get by deep snow at some places. |
To our right is Chittenden Mountain. Looking back, we can see both Ute and Spencer mountains, their eastern slopes are home to Eldora Ski Resort.
As for the Jasper Creek drainage, it is a spectical to behold. We take a few minutes at one particular rock outcropping for water and a handful of gorp. The rugged terrain in IPW is some of the most inspiring this close to Denver.
After climbing through snow for about two hours, we come out of the trees and enter an open alpine meadow. The rambling slops up here are littered with early spring wild flowers. The Aspen are just beginning to explode from winters reign. Hints of multiple shades of green are spread across the vast meadow.
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| Fresh elk print headed the direction we are going. |
There in the middle of trail is a large elk track. It appears to be less than a day old. My senses now are envigorated. My eyes are darting from side to side, in the event I notice something moving among the Aspen or walking toward me from the rear. Not today.
Again, various sections of trail are overtaken by runoff caused by massive amounts of snow above us. Water is flowing steadily making it easier to temporarily walk beside trail.
The meadow is open. No canopy overhead now. We stop at a rotting log and decide to have lunch. From the log we can see directly back down Jasper Creek drainage and the TH nestled somewhere in the forest.
We are 3.4 mi. from the TH. Close but we will keep Jasper Lake on the "to do" list for later. In the wilderness, the beauty of nature has a way of telling you to enjoy ones journey. Life is precious. Make the most of every day.
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| We are forced to walk atop the 24"+ deep snow fields still on trail, May 29th. |
The waters of Jasper Creek are crashing over boulders not far from our lunch site. As we reload our day packs, one more look in all directions, and a deep breath must last until I return to the IPW for another helping of this awesome place.
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| Alpine meadow high in Jasper Creek drainage. |
We would not see the elk that left its tracks on trail. No beaver, although there was a large beaver dam on the creek as we entered the meadow. Our only claim to wildlife today is a busy red-headed woodpecker. We heard him before we saw him clutching a dead tree directly overhead. Our presence would not interrupt his eagerness to make thousands of holes in an effort to find a feast of insects, larva, or ants to devour.
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| Trail filled with runoff from higher elevation. |
Earlier I told Ed, we may not see any or many people on trail today. That was true before we started for the TH. Dozens of day hikers, many with their dog(s), passed us on the return.
As a seasoned hiker/backpacker, I would rate this hike as moderate. Not too long, not too steep. Exceptional rock formations to explore, the always close-by sounds of Jasper Creek, and an abundance of views of the Continental Divide and surrounding mountains.
Back at the TH, sneakers replaced rugged boots, and packs were tucked away for a few days. On the way into town, Ed prided himself on how far he could coast without touching the throttle. Lets say there were some loooong glides.
As we entered Eldora, the town dog was curled up nicely on main street. "Hey there buddy, how ya doin'...nice to see ya," I said as we passed by. He looked up at me as if to say, 'Hey you, keep it down, OK, this is Eldora."
Total Miles Completed Today = 6.8
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