Indian Peaks Wilderness (IPW)

To say "Stuff Happens" would describe why the original plan for an annual multi-day backpack trip did not happen.  This year, there were a number of reasons why the first plan, and numerous alternate plans had to be scrapped.

It was mid-August before a salvaged trip plan was developed.  Two members of the group from last year were unable to go, leaving my good friend Ed and me. 

We finally agreed on a two-day, one night trip into IPW.  In an effort to save time, we obtained a camping permit at Ace Hardware store in Nederland, on our way to Hessie TH, outside the village of Eldora.

Arriving at Hessie TH about 9 a.m., we found a line of vehicles already parked long the dirt access road.  This TH is very remote.  Except for two port-o-john's, there is no shelter.


Entering Indian Peaks Wilderness.

Bypass Trail begins running parallel with a jeep access road about 1 mile.  After crossing Jasper Creek (runoff from Jasper Lake), trail continues through Spruce and Pine forest to a second bridge across the same creek.  This section of trail is loaded with loose rock, making stable footing near impossible.

Soon we approach the junction with King Lake Trail, which also takes hikers to Lost Lake farther up trail.  We take Devil's Thumb Trail, a single track path to Jasper Lake.  We had hiked this section before on snowshoes.  Today the same trail looked entirely different.

A few muddy areas, running water from springs and higher elevation runoff across trail were welcome distractions to the minute to minute mundane task of placing one foot in front of the other.

Scene from trail.

The challenge was to negotiate the next 4+ miles of terrain, find a suitable camp site, make camp, and have some time to relax, maybe scout the area around camp before dinner.

Maybe it was the 39# pack on my back.  That combined with the constant challenge of where to place my next step, remain focused, and still enjoy all the beauty around me, reduced our pace to about one mile an hour.

While on a break, a 20-something solo hiker came from down trail.  Carrying a homemade solar panel on his pack, he explained that he built it himself.  It powered all his electronic gear.  We would see him later in the day and again after he set up camp above ours.

One of many colorful meadows.

After over 4.5 miles on trail we began looking for a spot to make camp.  We had passed the last of eight designated campsites at Jasper Lake.  We were now approaching Devil's Thumb Lake.  It's after 2:30 p.m., clouds overhead are changing from white to grey.  We must find a flat spot soon or be forced to make camp in the rain.

After crossing a small spring, trail climbed through an area of dense pine before opening into a sizeable meadow loaded with wildflowers.  As we came out of the trees, Ed noticed a spot where the grass along the tree line was pressed down.  On closer inspection, it was obvious a tent had been there recently.  As we moved about the stand of pine trees, there was an area among the dense growth that looked flat and big enough for two tents.

Wildflowers close to camp.

I had packed a 6' X 8' silnylon ultralite tarp for the trip.  After clearing a few small stones, pine cones, twigs and a sizeable log we would bring back as our kitchen bench, we began installing the tarp.

Once in place, I realized there would not sufficient space for both tents under the tarp.  Ed's one-man fit well leaving just enough room for both of us to set up our kitchen for meals under the tarp.

I set up a two-man outside the trees on the spot where the matted grass was.  Thirty minutes later, without any warning, it began to rain.  Although very light, it caused us to go inside to prepare for the night.

Beyond description.

After inflating the air mattress, and placing my bag on top, my body wanted to do nothing but relax.  A combination of rain pelting the tent, and wind gusts causing my tent to cave around my head as I lay resting, didn't allow me to drift off.

The sun was retreating behind the horizon.  The wind now felt much cooler, prompting me to add a knit cap, LS cotton jersey, fleece, and hooded windbreaker before preparing dinner.

One of many tarns.

The space beside Ed's tent worked well under the tarp.  A hefty portion of spaghetti and meatballs with sauce, fresh apple slices and coffee provided needed energy.  After dinner, all remaining food was combined in a sealed dry bag for the night.

After kitchen cleanup duties, we went in search of a tree to hoist our remaining food for the night.  We would find a good size pine with fewer branches than some.  It would provide a better chance of getting a nylon cord over one of them on the first toss.

Devil's Thumb Lake, and it's namesake in full view.

With one end of the cord secured to a squarish flat rock, I was able to thread the cord over a branch about 15' high.  The end of the cord tied to a rock was secured to an adjacent tree.

Now it was time to explore.  We walked up trail, another 200+' elevation, to a cirque directly below Devil's Thumb, a rock outcropping in the shape of a large thumb.  Other features to be seen here include  Devil's Thumb Pass (11,747'), Skyscraper Peak (12,383').  The Continental Divide runs between those two points, making the horizon special. 


Alpenglow on a rock face.

On the way back to camp, we caught what is called alpenglow.  It's an optical phenomenon in which a horizontal red glowing band is observed on the horizon opposite to the sun.  This effect occurs when the sun is just below the horizon.  The nice thing about this was that from where we were on trail above camp, alpenglow was happening directly behind camp.

There is a certain routine when preparing for the night.  It comes from lessons learned from many nights in the backcountry.

• Insure all emergency items are within arms reach, i.e. bear spray, dump kit, little john, headlamp, water bladder with bite-valve facing me, and personal meds.
• Insure important items are protected from moisture, i.e. camera, trail journal/pen.
• Secure clothes not worn to sleep in a stuff sack.  Slip sack inside fleece jacket, secure in place with rubber band.  Makes a soft, cozy pillow.
• Place boots, poles, and water filter in vestibule.

All non-essential items are in my pack, with a full weatherproof cover.  The pack has been cinched shoulder high to a tree for the night.

Devil's Thumb from the west.

To be sure my extremities will remain warm, I will add a tight knit skull cap and a loosely knit cap, LS cotton jersey, glove liners, and an extra pair of cotton socks.  Now I can inch down into the bag, cinch the hood around my head and drift off to the sounds of nature.

The only thing I hear are occasional wind gusts as they hit the tent, pushing the mesh panel above my head against my bag. 

There was a call from nature about 1 a.m.  Headlamp was secured, little john found, and a minute later I was at peace for the night.

We estimated the temperature may have dropped to the high to mid-40's overnight.

Early morning in the back country is amazing.  As the door is unzipped, then the vestibule, I look out on the surrounding meadow loaded with wildflowers displaying their most vibrant colors.  The sun has yet to peek over the horizon high above camp.

As I stick my feet through the doorway into the vestibule, my eyes scan the rocky terrain above.  While lacing my boots, my thought is 'Will we see elk, moose, mountain goat, or big horn today?

Making my way past Ed's tent, I notice he is standing by his tent. "'I'm going for the food so we can have breakfast," I tell him..  "I've got it already," he said.

Minutes later, two servings of hot oatmeal with walnuts and cranberries added, plus a cup of coffee, and I am ready for the day.

Before breaking camp we made another climb  up the slope another 200+' elevation.  We wanted a closer look at the rock feature that was the source for naming Devil's Thumb Lake.   Perched high above the water, this formation is another magnificent product developed over millions of years.

Unaware of what time it is, we lay on the soft alpine tundra while enjoying absolute solitude in the high country.

On the way back to camp, we pass the lake.  Constant gusty winds have churned the water to the point of creating white caps.  Something I have never seen before on an alpine lake.

Overhead clouds are racing from mountain peaks.  Their color earlier a fluffy white has become grey, a sign they are working on a plan to dump their accumulated load.

It's late morning,  time to break camp and start for the TH.  We are on trail by noon.  Normally, going down slope takes less time than going up.  Today our legs were spent.  We made a number of stops to rest and rehydrate, taking almost as long to get off the mountain as it did to climb it.