Ten lucky members of the High Country Hiker (HCH) group were treated to yet another outstanding day of hiking in RMNP. It was the fourth trip to the Park this year for the group based at The Aurora Center for Active Adults, in Aurora. It was unfortunate for three members of the group who cancelled. This was one great hike.
The group hiked to Balanced Rock, and Finch Lake, and completed the Pool Loop previously...all in the Park. Each of those outings provided interesting and different landscapes. This hike would not only challenge hikers physically, it would test their emotional resolve as well. Trail today threw every possible challenge (record elevation gain. snow and scree fields, single log bridges, active springs across trail, and a long rocky descent) in the way of hikers.
It was the first hike for Bob Seckman, since having knee replacement surgery. Weeks of dedication doing daily PT at home was key to ensuring Bob would meet his personal goal to be back on trail this hike. Seckman later told me, it's a little sore but I'll put ice on it tonight. It will be fine. One other member of the group fought through a bout of nausea on trail. After the hike, members offered her a beverage and crackers to ease the queasiness in her stomach.
The bus pulled out at 7:00 a.m. to insure we would make it to the road construction checkpoint on Bear Lake Road, in the Park by 9:00 a.m.. We raced through the entrance station, thanks to members who offered to show their senior pass. We spent mere seconds at the park entrance as a result. That meant we would be at the Park and Ride shuttle lot soon. After a pit stop there was a brief wait before two shuttles arrived.
At Bear Lake TH (9,475'), every parking space was full. Dozens of park visitors milled around while checking a map, waiting for the rest of their party to arrive, or talking to a Park Ranger to obtain information.
As expected, the hustle and bustle of all those people quickly dissipated as we made our way on the spur trail leading to Odessa Lake Trail. The trail bed immediately told me we were in RMNP. Except for a few wet sections, trail all day would be dry and loaded with exposed and loose rock, and tree roots.
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| Lake Helene (10,650') surrounded by Spruce. |
One account of this hike I read recently called it a "Breathtaking adventure and death march." Although HCH members are a hearty lot, I would not consider any part of this hike a death march.
Virtually all of the elevation gain (1,200') of the 1,300' would be realized in the first 2.5 miles. The good thing is this section of the hike is in the trees. That meant we would have a good canopy most of the day. As we got close to the top of the climb, we had to negotiate a few lingering snow fields spread across trail. Yes, there are snowfields in July at higher elevations in Colorado. It just adds to the adventure of it all.
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| Thick snow fields across trail at 10,500'. |
Trail makes a sharp turn at a lookout (10,645') that provides a 270-degree view both up and down the Spruce Canyon gorge. Odessa Lake can be seen two miles down trail, tucked among the thick spruce forest. The view from this spot must be seen first hand to be fully appreciated. It is truly breathtaking.
Trail descends sharply for the next 2+ miles through massive rock and scree while it hugs the western edge of the gorge.
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| Trail crosses large areas of scree. |
Again, a few snow fields aided by the shade from rock-strewn slopes cover trail as we make our descent. There is just enough space at a few places to step beside the snow allowing us to move down trail. I felt goose bumps swelling as I absorbed views of the rugged terrain, and majestic waterfalls. The feeling of being in a remote section of this national park makes one truly appreciate the beauty of Colorado.
There is Flattop Mountain (12,324'); Notchtop Mountain (12,129'), with Grace Falls flowing out of a rock face the size of Half Dome in Yosemite. Plus there is Knobtop Mountain (12,331'), and Little Matterhorn (11,586'), all in a row. Directly below the Matterhorn is Lake Odessa.
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| Scene from the overlook into Spruce Canton. Notchtop Mountain is rear center. |
It is difficult to concentrate (as I must) on my footing, when with each step, there is an abundance of mind-numbing scenery to be absorbed. Again and again I stop, to look both up and down trail capturing the unique beauty this park offers. It is difficult to capture it all on the chip of my Canon Rebel XT.
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| Hikers negotiate huge boulders for the 2-mile descent into Spruce Canyon. |
The slopes are littered with wildflowers this time of year. Today, Blue Columbine, Tansy Aster, and Indian Paintbrush, show off their vibrant colors.
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| Snowfields remain across trail in July as hikers make their way into Spruce Canyon. |
Arriving at the spur trail leading to Odessa Lake, Ed is ready for lunch. Everyone agrees as we make our way along the runoff waters from the lake. The stream is actually Fern Creek and drains directly from Odessa into Fern Lake, our next feature to be enjoyed.
Sitting in the meadow beside a bustling Fern Creek, I am overwhelmed by the feeling of being in such a remote spot, yet It's only a few miles to a TH is either direction. After mixing a cup of powdered lemonade, I open a whole wheat pita, and stuff it with ready-to-eat tuna salad, fresh cut tomato, romaine lettuce, and mozarella cheese. Then I am off to scout the Lake.
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| Blue Columbine. |
While capturing surrounding landscapes, I notice families enjoying the day fishing. As I look into the water, two yards from shore, two brown and a cutthroat trout are hanging out in the shadows of downed trees. How awesome is that?
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| Lunch by idyllic Fern Creek. |
In terms of other hikers we met or passed today, there were many, but not the hordes of people that choke the Glacier Gorge Trail on the opposite side of the park. We met people from Canada, Texas, Germany, and Japan. Plus two women from Boulder we met at Fern Lake, who were out for the day on horseback. They were preparing for a multi-day trip later this year. We told them about the HCH group and the wonderful adventures members have enjoyed so far this hiking season.
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| Odessa Lake, with Notchtop Mountain at rear. |
The Park has over 265,000 acres with hundreds of miles of trail. Add over three million visitors each year, some of whom have little respect for the need to keep our national parks free from litter, and you can understand why the National Park Service maintains strict regulations on open fires and promotes Leave No Trace principles.
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| Trail moves past Fern Lake. |
Just beyond Fern Lake is the junction with Spruce Lake Trail. Another 1.8 miles and an 800' drop in elevation brings us to The Pool. On the way, we pass Marguerite Falls, a small nondescript spot and Fern Falls, a much more dramatic natural feature. Water blasts over the crest of the falls dropping onto a complicated network of rotting trees. Cool mist from the waters long drop can be felt from trail.
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| Ed and Nancy on the bridge below Fern Lake. |
As we approach The Pool, sounds of water rushing over and around huge boulders in The Big Thompson River can be heard. Just up stream from The Pool is the confluence of Spruce Creek and Big Thompson. These waters tumble down Forest Canyon and put on a unique display of thrashing whitewater for Park visitors at The Pool.
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| Hikers rest at Fern Falls. |
For another 1.7 mi., trail follows Big Thompson River to the Fern Lake TH As we wait for the remaining members of our group, a sign tells us it is another .7 miles to the shuttle bus stop. Can't rest the bones before walking the dusty dirt road. It would be the one part of the day I would easily forget.
RMNP has something for people of all ages. And we did see people of all ages today. From the toddler sitting on his daddy's shoulders to another in a stroller (yes a stroller on trail), to youth groups, families and many senior couples.
We will be back!
But not before we enjoyed coffee, pie and ice cream at Colorado Cherry Company. An advance phone call assured us the CCC staff would have a fresh pot of coffee brewed by the time we arrive.
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| A favorite stop after a long day on trail at the Colorado Cherry Company. Front row (L to R) Judy Shaw, Marcia McBurnett, and Lissa Ebersole. Back row (L to R) Hike Leader/Driver, Ed Blum, Gary Merical, Nancy Bralic, Bob Seckman, and Kathy Hall. Raheal Kneebone is not shown. Photo by Gary Alleman, Happy Trails Photography, Aurora, CO. |
Total miles = 9.9
Total elevation gain = 1,378'
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